Home for Christmas
The 2024 olive harvest is finally complete, and December’s arrival—however welcome—has caught me off guard with the glorious weather we are experiencing in the Santa Ynez Valley. And yet, my idea of what a home should look and feel like during the holidays was strongly influenced by growing up in exactly this type of weather. To this day, Christmas is no less magical in the absence of seasonal hallmarks found in colder climates (no bitter cold nipping at noses, no sleigh tracks running through forests of flocked trees). Warm temperatures, against a backdrop of blue skies and the snow-capped San Gabriels, are still the seasonal norm in Southern California, an almost certain guarantee that at least some of the day will be spent outdoors. All of which makes Christmas not only more understated but really quite simple.
Perhaps it’s this unique blend of California’s natural beauty and relaxed approach to the holidays that makes some traditions feel so enduringly special. One such example in our home is the iconic Della Robbia wreath, crafted by Boys Republic since 1922. Inspired by the Renaissance masterpieces of Andrea and Luca della Robbia, whose distinctive maiolica glaze over clay produced brilliant colors with a luminous finish, Della Robbia wreaths are fashioned of mixed greenery, seed pods, bright berries, and deep yellow citrus. They have remained unchanged for decades, and their organic yet casually elegant feel evokes Christmas as much as the carols of the season.
This celebration of European craftsmanship takes center stage in much of our home décor at this time of year. My favorites are linens and tableware collected over many years: Green and gold Ginori 1735 china, gifted to me years ago by a dear friend; tablecloths from Bertozzi and Teleria Toscana purchased during travel through Italy; individual crèche pieces carved in Naples; delicate gold-leaf paper mâché angels fashioned in Florence, all bring the house to life in a special way at Christmas. Such beautifully crafted pieces, integrated into a casual, California lifestyle, embody a contemporary interpretation of old-world design that expresses my creative side (all too often overpowered by my stubborn preference for minimalism). The items are few but precious, and their quality is a testament to real sustainability as they will surely last for many holiday seasons to come.
Most importantly, each piece has a story that I hold dear. Whether the silver wedding flatware from my parents or Waterford crystal from my mother-in-law, these treasured keepsakes elevate my Christmas Eve table and make real and visible the passage of time. All evoke memories of loved ones, and what is Christmas if not about remembering and making memories?
In that sense, nowhere is making memories more evident than in the kitchen, which brings me to the subject of food preparation at this time of year. While heavier foods are the celebratory norm, living in California has always made other lighter options not only possible but desirable. Lettuces, kale, chard, and carrots from our winter garden (and available at many farmers’ markets) prepared and dressed with quality EVOO, are often the preferred choice of family members who never seem saddened to pass up hot turkey on an 80-degree day!
And finally, as someone who has embraced cooking rather than baking all my life, having enough sweets to satisfy everyone during the holidays is nothing short of a challenge. The answer has been perfecting just two or three desserts that won’t have me laboring for hours or fretting anxiously when they emerge from the oven. Too, these desserts need to be simple enough to prepare at the last minute when unexpected guests inevitably appear! A more festive chocolate version of olive oil cake, topped with crème fraiche and Sicilian almond cookies that make use of almond rather than all-purpose flour, are two wonderful choices, delicious as they are visually appealing. And when I have just bit more time, making Florentine cantucci is high on my list, as it is family favorite and welcome addition on the traditional sweets’ platter. All of these desserts shine without the addition of butter, making them a healthier choice and a practically guiltless pleasure at any time of day.
The Italians have a proverb - Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi (Christmas with your family, Easter with whomever you want), a time-honored bit of popular wisdom that underscores the importance of gathering with family during the holidays. While more frenetic lifestyles and geographic distances between family members have made getting together a challenge over the last few decades, for many of us the proverb has stood the test of time, and we will once again gather to celebrate long-standing traditions this year. All hearts truly do go home for Christmas.